Commack Restaurants

Cielo might be one of the Smithtown area's best kept secrets as far as dining options go. Formerly known as Polini's, Cielo changed ownership in 2006 when the restaurant's executive chef, Mike, took it over when the previous owners retired. The restaurant has been renovated and re-named, but it continues to serve up expertly-prepared traditional Italian fare in a relaxed atmosphere.

Italian for sky, Cielo's décor reflects its namesake with walls and a vaulted ceiling painted a pale blue with fluffy clouds. Mahogany wainscoting, moldings and hard wood floors offer a nice contrast to the sky mural. The atmosphere can best be described as comfortable and unpretentious, letting the cuisine speak for itself.

This past Saturday evening, my husband and I enjoyed an authentic Italian dinner at Cielo. Upon arriving, we were greeted by the friendly manager/hostess and seated immediately. While we opted to sit in one of the restaurant's two main dining rooms, there is also a lovely outdoor dining area for those that prefer an al fresco experience. Shortly after we were seated and began perusing the menu, our waitress stopped by to cordially introduce herself and deliver a basket of sourdough bread and a dish of olive oil with shaved Parmesan cheese for dipping.

The dinner menu offers a nice selection of hot and cold appetizers, salads, soups, steaks and chops, seafood, veal, chicken, and baked dishes. In addition, its "Mix and Match" section presents a choice of 11 different pastas prepared with any of the restaurant's wide array of sauces and toppings. They also offer side dishes of broccoli, spinach, rice pilaf, or meatballs for just $3.99 each.

For our appetizers, we chose two of our favorites: fried calamari and mozzarella Caprese. The calamari was lightly battered and fried to a perfect crisp, with just the right tenderness, and served with marinara sauce. The mozzarella Caprese looked almost too good to eat; the ripe tomatoes and fresh mozzarella tasted wonderful drizzled in balsamic vinegar and sprinkled with basil.

I opted for the jumbo shrimp with capellini fra diavolo as my main course, and my husband selected the baked eggplant parmigiana with a side order of meatballs. The shrimp was fresh and not at all overdone, and the fra diavolo sauce was spicy and contained chunks of juicy tomato and hot cherry peppers. Not being a fan of prosciutto, upon ordering the dish I requested that the chef remove it from the sauce, and he obliged. The eggplant parmigiana was the perfect consistency and came smothered in a savory red sauce and melted mozzarella cheese. We shared the chocolate lava for dessert and were treated to warm chocolate cake with melted fudge oozing out, accompanied by vanilla ice cream and whipped cream.

Wine lovers will be pleased to discover that Cielo has an extensive tasting menu that can be paired with each meal. For just $12, diners can sample up to 12 red and white wines, each generously poured and served in order of your preference.

Cielo is an ideal spot for moderately-priced, classic Italian food served in an unobtrusive setting. You can enjoy a complete dinner for between $30-50 pp, and lunches from $15-25 pp. Making good on its promise of an outstanding dining experience, Cielo earned 4 1/2 dishes.